Megane Setups

[jrowland96]

Here's Celo63's setups that he posted at RSC and a couple of replays as well as his setup guide for the Meganes. Hope this helps!


Using my existing setups as a base, adjust the following:-

On flat tracks, use springs 280 front and rear.
On undulating tracks with downhill braking/cornering, use 320 front, 280 rear.
Also increase front toe in to -0.20 deg. Helps turn-in.

Use as little wing as possible.
Try 1 deg first and if the rear feels too loose after all attempts to settle it, go to 2 deg.
You probably won't need any more than 2 deg wing for most tracks.
Any more than 2 deg wing and you start to lose straight line speed big time.

Aim to use as little rear shock and as much front shock as feels comfortable, when trying to settle the rear end.
Too little rear can make the back end mushy and too much front can cause chatter/understeer.
Try up and down to see what feels best.
On smooth tracks, use a ratio like 2,3,2,3 or 3,4,3,4 (s-bump/s-rebound/f-bump/f-rebound)
On bumpy tracks, use a ratio like 1,3,1,3 or 2,4,2,4

To fine tune the balance between understeer/oversteer, adjust the front anti-roll bar.
Increase anti-roll to reduce oversteer.
Decrease anti-roll to reduce understeer.

Brake pressure... was at 85%, but that's a bit weak. Better at 90%.
Depends on your hardware too though.
Adjust up or down until you get good braking without locking wheels.

Brake duct: affects brake disk temperature. At Bathurst for example, the distances between braking points are long, so the brakes cool down alot before your next brake point. I used a brake duct setting of 2 there to keep the brake temps up. Use 3 for tracks without long straights or where braking is heavy and frequent. Brake disk temps shouldn't go above 600 to 700 degrees I don't think. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that one.

To check if your brakes are operating in the correct temperature range, bring up the brake temp display on a lap and keep one eye on it. You should see your brake temps reach a high of around 600 degrees under braking then cool to about 200 degrees by next braking point. Makes a fair bit of difference to your stopping power, so well worth checking on. Adjust duct size accordingly. Lower number = hotter brakes. Higher number = cooler brakes.

Tyres grip best with temperature gradient of 15 degrees front, 10 rear (aprox)
Adjust camber either way if needing corrected. More negative = higher gradient.
Adjust tyre pressure to get tyre centre temperature correct.
You probably won't need to do much to these settings though.

Tip: Never check for tyre temperature gradients after a spin. They will be rubbish.
To do it properly, do at least 2 or 3 clean laps, cross the line and exit (ESC) to pits.

Ride height: Thought I'd add a comment about this, as I had to increase the ride height for Watkins Glen. At default ride height, the car would ground-out and spin when driving over the "grip-strips" and some kerbs in the chicane. If you find you spin or lose traction for no apparent reason, or when going over a nasty bump or kerb, try increasing the ride height a bit. Keep the rear end a half centimetre higher than the front.
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With those few tweaks, you can make stable and competitive setups for the Megane at most any track, using the ones already posted as a base.
(Edit: lol, it's turned into more of a "how-to" than "a couple rules of thumb". Better that way though )

Hope that helps out.

[davidan]

cool thanks for posting these John.

[Paul]

I ran a couple of races at Orchard Lake yesterday and the first race and start of practice on the second race, I couldn't get under 1:30.5.
I was using the timcollier01 setup for Montery.
Made a few small adjustments to the rear shocks and promptly went out and ran a 1:28.3.
Try it!!!!