Setup Question - High Speed Oversteer

[Troy Dalton]

I've been experimenting with the Group A cars and I'm finding that, on tarmac, they all seem to snap oversteer at high speed. This is especially problematic, because there doesn't seem to be any warning before the rear swaps ends. I've resorted to trail-braking at high speed, but it's still pretty sketchy. I'm wondering if anyone has discovered a way to dial out this phenomenon or at least balanced the car so that the oversteer is more gradual and predictable.

[tannat]

Troy,

Under the RBR options menu there are various filter settings for your controller. One of them is a speed sensitive filter. You might start there.....

[Troy Dalton]

Troy,

Under the RBR options menu there are various filter settings for your controller. One of them is a speed sensitive filter. You might start there.....

I'll give that a try. Thanks

[spspears]

Troy,

What hind of setup are you using? Are you setting the car up as I described in the members section? I had some problems with the setup I normally use on stages like Frazier Wells and Chirdonhead - too much high speed oversteer but not as snappy as you describe. I found that lowering the bump settings on the rear helped some.

If you're using the default setups, it is likely that the spring rates are too high. These setups usually lose the rear end very quickly, especially if there's any irregularity to the road surface. Same is true if you put a rear wheel in the grass. It just snaps around.

What car is it? If you could post the setup in dropbox, I could take a look.

[Matthew King]

What is trail-braking?
I can't say I really completely know what I'm doing with setups still, but here's what I do. I have been putting more toe in in the rear lately to try keep the rear wheels pulling behind the car (FWD cars). Keeping the rear rollbar soft seems to help too. Usually you can feel when the back end starts to slip and catch it.
I still haven't found a way to go flat out on Joux Plane for example without the rear slipping, and have to dial back in certain turns. I'm still learning too.

[WhiskeyChaser]

Troy probably the easiest two things you can do without getting detailed is adjust the rear toe to a higher negative number. For me I typically set it around -1.00 for tarmac. Also, lower the rebound on the rear dampers for bumpy tarmac (2.5 to 3.5). Finally one other thing. The rear brakes on tarmac stages in particular can set you up for disaster. I rarely set them higher than 3300 and that is for gravel. On tarmac usually around 2600 or less if its wet.

My techniques.

Cheers

[Manuel Samaniego]

Troy probably the easiest two things you can do without getting detailed is adjust the rear toe to a higher negative number. For me I typically set it around -1.00 for tarmac. Also, lower the rebound on the rear dampers for bumpy tarmac (2.5 to 3.5). Finally one other thing. The rear brakes on tarmac stages in particular can set you up for disaster. I rarely set them higher than 3300 and that is for gravel. On tarmac usually around 2600 or less if its wet.

My techniques.

Cheers

Hehe i remember Rick's crazy brake values he likes them like that, not really my style but the rest of the setup is very good. I remember once i was testing a DS3 setup in joux verte and i was at 160KPH i think, i saw a hairpin and i started braking lightly, i was still doing 150 and the hairpin was getting closer, slammed the brakes!! nothing, haha still at 130 and the car wasn't thinking of braking, in the end i went straight into the barrier at 100 KPH lol. And the brakes never locked

Cheers!

[WhiskeyChaser]

Yeah I am a leadfoot I suppose on the brakes. I kinda set them up in a "anti-skid" fashion because when they are locked they dont do anything. And I suppose it might be my configuration. I dont use any filters. It works for me. I want to push the pedal to the floor if I need to and still get effective braking.

Cheers
Time to get leg three done.

[Troy Dalton]

What is trail-braking?
I can't say I really completely know what I'm doing with setups still, but here's what I do. I have been putting more toe in in the rear lately to try keep the rear wheels pulling behind the car (FWD cars). Keeping the rear rollbar soft seems to help too. Usually you can feel when the back end starts to slip and catch it.
I still haven't found a way to go flat out on Joux Plane for example without the rear slipping, and have to dial back in certain turns. I'm still learning too.

Trail braking is a motorcycle riding and driving technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn and are gradually released up to the point of apex. Trailing off the braking pressure either while straight line braking or, as above, after turn in has begun, allows for a less abrupt and more accurate final corner entry speed adjustment.

[Troy Dalton]

Troy probably the easiest two things you can do without getting detailed is adjust the rear toe to a higher negative number. For me I typically set it around -1.00 for tarmac. Also, lower the rebound on the rear dampers for bumpy tarmac (2.5 to 3.5). Finally one other thing. The rear brakes on tarmac stages in particular can set you up for disaster. I rarely set them higher than 3300 and that is for gravel. On tarmac usually around 2600 or less if its wet.

My techniques.

Cheers

Hmm...I'll try reducing the rear braking and decrease the rear rebound.