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Thread: How to get optimal FFB settings in iRacing

  1. #1
    Z_Stig's Avatar
    Z_Stig is offline Jason Lundy
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    Default How to get optimal FFB settings in iRacing

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    Jason Lundy
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    MikeyRud's Avatar
    MikeyRud is offline Mike Ruder
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    Yep, that's the one I knew of.
    Thanks for posting this because I have not seen the new info-2013 updated part! (edit)

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    Anthony James's Avatar
    Anthony James is offline Senior Member
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    Iím still in the weeds, and need a bit more help.
    I have followed all of the FFB settings both in my windows settings and in game settings for the G27 wheel. I think I made it worse lol. Here is what Iím experiencing and maybe someone has had the same experience and can help me tune this thing in.

    Example: Constant radius corner.
    Normally I approach this corner and turn in at my turn in point with one turn of the wheel (say 90deg), and can keep it at that point and the car will turn to the apex and end up at my track out point without any additional motion in the wheel.

    What I experience with my current settings:
    I approach the corner and turn in at my turn in point with one turn of the wheel (90deg) and initially the car will respond properly but as soon as the car takes itís set, it feels like I have turned too much and have to reduce my turn (say 80 deg) to hold the line to the apex. Kind of like a ďloose on entryĒ situation, but this not a car set up problem, itís a wheel ratio problem. Then as I track out from the apex I have to put more wheel input in (say 95deg) to keep it from going wide at track out, ďlike a push on exit.í

    This is not a car set up problem at speed, it is a wheel ratio problem. I just canít keep a line through a corner without all of this correction.

    Conclusion:
    So I turn into the corner, opposite lock correct, get to the apex, then turn in more to correct, at track out. It is so much work on keeping my line that Iím driving, not racing.

    Iím sure it is a ratio thing that is not set to my liking. There are the settings in windows, and the settings in the game, and instead of going mental changing and trying different settings all over the place I thought I would post my dilemma here and see if someone has had the same issue but found a solution.

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    MikeyRud's Avatar
    MikeyRud is offline Mike Ruder
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    Are you sure your not getting some controller lag?

    If you think it's a steering ratio issue then try a different degrees of rotation in game. You can change it when you calibrate:
    Options/Drive calibration/90 degree "HOLD" then click OK.........well do this so you don't actually hold it at 90 degrees to get the desired rotation to try.

    I just keep mine for all car I have at the real thing - 900.

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    Hoogs's Avatar
    Hoogs is offline Christien Hoogveld
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony James View Post
    I’m still in the weeds, and need a bit more help.
    I have followed all of the FFB settings both in my windows settings and in game settings for the G27 wheel. I think I made it worse lol. Here is what I’m experiencing and maybe someone has had the same experience and can help me tune this thing in.

    Example: Constant radius corner.
    Normally I approach this corner and turn in at my turn in point with one turn of the wheel (say 90deg), and can keep it at that point and the car will turn to the apex and end up at my track out point without any additional motion in the wheel.

    What I experience with my current settings:
    I approach the corner and turn in at my turn in point with one turn of the wheel (90deg) and initially the car will respond properly but as soon as the car takes it’s set, it feels like I have turned too much and have to reduce my turn (say 80 deg) to hold the line to the apex. Kind of like a “loose on entry” situation, but this not a car set up problem, it’s a wheel ratio problem. Then as I track out from the apex I have to put more wheel input in (say 95deg) to keep it from going wide at track out, “like a push on exit.’

    This is not a car set up problem at speed, it is a wheel ratio problem. I just can’t keep a line through a corner without all of this correction.

    Conclusion:
    So I turn into the corner, opposite lock correct, get to the apex, then turn in more to correct, at track out. It is so much work on keeping my line that I’m driving, not racing.

    I’m sure it is a ratio thing that is not set to my liking. There are the settings in windows, and the settings in the game, and instead of going mental changing and trying different settings all over the place I thought I would post my dilemma here and see if someone has had the same issue but found a solution.

    I'm assuming you are driving the Cadillac Anthony. That car is such a beast. Its possible to do incredible lap times with this car but its a fickle business balancing the Cadillac. I've experienced exactly what your describing. Its like there is a magic point where the Caddy just turns on a dime but its such a fine line. The initial over steer scenario followed by the under steer is how the car has been programmed and not so much a wheel ratio issue. If you're feeling frustrated by the Cadillac I recommend buying the RUF or the McLaren. SOO much easier to drive and then you will be enjoying yourself and not giving up.

    I wanted to drive the Cadillac in this series but after banging my head against the wall countless times I decided that if I was going to enjoy this series I needed to drive an easier car.



    I think Dylan does a 1:50.xxx or better. Watch his race line, its near perfect.

    Edit : its worth mentioning that Dylan drifts the car around a couple corners.
    Last edited by Hoogs; 12-21-2013 at 02:52 PM.
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    jham's Avatar
    jham is offline Jerry Hamilton
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    Dang, I just found this thread. Thanks for posting Anthony. I am having the same problem with the Caddy and thought it must be just me. Or some nuanced setup trick I didn't know. Hoogs, thanks for the insight. I'll have to try the other cars.
    blue skies, jerry

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    Wayne Fitzgerald's Avatar
    Wayne Fitzgerald is offline Senior Community Leader
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    you might give the motion cockpit settings a try. it excaggerates the body roll so that you can see it better. It will let you see the lag between steering input and the weight transfer of the body. The big tall Caddy is the toughest to handle because of the roll and the big lag between input and tire loading. The Ford is probably the stiffest, pushiest, and most adjustable. The real McLaren has an open diff and I suspect the iRacing one does too. It makes it a bit squirrelly, but still a fairly calm car to drive, very little to adjust. The Ruf is typical Porsche, easy to drive, not very adjustable, can be a bit nasty off-throttle.
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  8. #8
    Z_Stig's Avatar
    Z_Stig is offline Jason Lundy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Fitzgerald View Post
    you might give the motion cockpit settings a try. it excaggerates the body roll so that you can see it better. It will let you see the lag between steering input and the weight transfer of the body. The big tall Caddy is the toughest to handle because of the roll and the big lag between input and tire loading. The Ford is probably the stiffest, pushiest, and most adjustable. The real McLaren has an open diff and I suspect the iRacing one does too. It makes it a bit squirrelly, but still a fairly calm car to drive, very little to adjust. The Ruf is typical Porsche, easy to drive, not very adjustable, can be a bit nasty off-throttle.
    I agree with everything you said Wayne, but the MP4-12C GT3 does have a locking diff, real and iRacing.
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  9. #9
    Anthony James's Avatar
    Anthony James is offline Senior Member
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    Untitled.jpgI got it better, so here is what I have:

    I have my POV @71 and -3.5

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